Myanmar is a very conservative and religious country with around 89% of the population practising Buddhism. In addition, it has retained the old colonial homophobic laws inherited from the British Empire.
Whilst Queen Elizabeth in the UK recently “signed” gay marriages into law, 150 years ago, Queen Victoria oversaw section 377 of the 1860 Penal Code being passed into law, which criminalised sodomy with up to 10 years imprisonment and a fine.
Battle of the Queens: Queen Elizabeth of UK recently oversaw gay marriages whereas Queen Victoria in 1860 introduced Myanmar’s homophobic laws
Although section 377 remains today (like similar laws in India and Sri Lanka), we couldn’t find any recent enforcement of it.
Since 2010, the military government of Myanmar has made sweeping political reforms which opened up the country more, particularly press censorship.
This has since allowed better reporting of LGBT issues and therefore with it a lot of development for the Burmese LGBT population, for example:
- the first Burmese gay pride festival took place on 17 May 2012, commemorating International Day Against Homophobia, Biphobia and Transphobia
- in November 2013 the popular opposition leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, called on the government to decriminalise homosexuality and repeal of the homophobic section 377 laws
- the first unofficial gay ‘marriage’ took place in Yangon in March 2014
- Myanmar’s first LGBT film festival took place in November 2014 called “&proud” with over 1,500 attendees.
The first &Proud Yangon LGBT Festival was held in November 2014
In fact, on our trek to Inle Lake from Kalaw in Central Myanmar, we only attracted a few smiles when showing off our brand new Burmese sun hats:
Our new sun hats for our Kalaw trek to Inle Lake in Central Myanmar got a few giggles
SO, WHAT IS LIKE BEING GAY IN MYANMAR?
We’ve learnt by now on our travels that even in quite homophobic countries like the Maldives, there’s one rule for tourists and another for locals. Despite being a conservative country, we found quite an active gay ‘scene’ (for Asian standards) in Yangon.
We met local boy, Aung Zuy who told us what it was like growing up in gay Myanmar and also about gay life in Yangon. We have unfortunately had to use a different name to protect Aung Zuy’s identity.
Dhammayangyi Pahto temple buddha at Bagan
#1 Mingalabar Aung Zuy, greetings and welcome to our blog. Introduce yourself:
Mingalabar Nomadic Boys! I’m Aung Zuy, 29 years old Burmese gay living in Yangon and a teacher for young children. Sorry for the anonymity but because of the homophobic and closed society I live in, I have to be careful to prevent this affecting my career.
#2 Are you out to your friends and family?
My Yangon social circle is quite small and it didn’t take them too long to figure it out. Not many guys my age are single. They are either married with kids or parading around the town with a trophy girlfriend. I refuse to be something I’m not, so people quickly reached the “he must be gay” conclusion.
With my family, they knew it all along since I was growing up as a child with my distinctive interest in lipstick and all other pretty things, including boys. But obviously with my career, I have to be careful so as to prevent it negatively affecting me. We still have some catching up to do.
Stefan posing with a pretty Burmese waiter who insisted they look alike
#3 What was it like growing up as a gay man in a country with a really oppressive military regime, especially in the 1980s and 1990s?
I don’t think the military regime was ever a factor in oppressing the gay culture. If anything, it would had only slowed down the fruition of the general public’s knowledge about modern homosexuality.
Burmese traditions and values have always been very conservative. Burmese culture in general is very sexually oppressive, so people have very limited views on what homosexuality is. Most people only consider transvestites, transsexuals and obviously effeminate persons as gay.
It really puzzles them to think two masculine looking men would only have eyes for each other, not for a woman. That’s changing slowly now in the cities thanks to Facebook and other social media.
Spotted these two young lads at Yangon’s Shwedagon Pagoda
#4 Do you think the law will change soon to be more inclusive towards the Burmese LGBT community?
I think the time will come soon. Things are changing here very fast. But there are still many fundamental things the country is catching up on first, like education and health care.
#5 So what’s the real deal with the lunghi (sarong) all the Burmese boys wear – commando or not?!!!
Ha ha ha you cheeky boys – wouldn’t you like to know? Well the truth is that traditionally it’s supposed to be worn commando and in the villages that’s the real deal. But in modern society, it is considered offensive to go commando in urban society.
A Burmese village boy we spotted in Bagan with lunghi: commando or not??!!
#6 Are there any gay bars or parties in Myanmar?
There’s a monthly gay party called FAB hosted by Gay Yangon Events (YG) which is great fun. The FAB Facebook page will give more info about their next party. It attracts a mixed crowd of both locals and foreigners.
FAB monthly gay party in Yangon
There is also a club called the Ninth Floor, frequented by young locals, some money boys, lady boys and very flamboyant gentlemen (tell the taxi driver that you want to go to the popular “JJ Disco” which is on the 8th floor of the Mingal Zei buildings – Ninth Floor is obviously on the floor above!)
#7 Are there any gay-friendly hotels you recommend in Yangon?
I do not think there are any openly gay-friendly hotels in Yangon but I know friends who have stayed at the Three Seasons Guesthouse during their stay in Yangon.
Aung Zuy posing in boat at Hpa An in south Myanmar
#8 What do you recommend people do in Yangon?
The Swedagon Pagoda is a must because this is one of the most religious sites in Yangon. You can also visit the Bogyoke Aung San Museum for a lesson in Burmese history.
And for foodies, try to experience at least once the street food of Yangon.
I know that Urban adventures offers a very good tour to cultural sites of Yangon and another one to discover the Street food by night in Yangon.
#9 Finally, we learnt of an annual religious festival near Mandalay during the full moon in August called “Taung Byone Nat”, which attracts many transgender people. Do you think Sebastien could attend with this darling outfit he picked up in Yangon?
Sebastien shopping for a new dress to wear at the next “Taung Byone Nat” festival
Oh yes, he would be the crowd’s darling boys!!
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